Author: Emanuela Longo
Undercover and The Soloist: from Japan to Florence for Pitti Uomo 2018. Their presence has represented a very important moment during the 93° edition of the fashion manifestation that looked like a true cinema festival. The two designers brought to Pitti Uomo a futuristic fashion in post-atomic style by walking the catwalks of the former Leopolda Station. The background was represented by a gigantic monolith, paying clearly homage to Kubrick’s movie, 2001: A Space Odyssey, the reference point of the whole collection.
Undercover presented 50 outfits in samurai style, with long skirts, sweatshirts with symbolic writings (such as, for example, “Human Error”); while The Soloist choose 40 looks focusing on armor protection-jackets that shielded the faces from special pseudo-radiation. The two collections employed artificial fibers and technologically performing fabrics in order to obtain futuristic results.
Jun Takahashi, creative director of Undercover, and Takahiro Mthashita, The Soloist, have been cooperating for years and their union has given life to a street punk style made in Tokyo characterized by the mix of music, cinema and pop culture. The two designers have both a strong personality that are well reflected in their collections. It isn’t by chance that the central theme is often surviving, the awareness of the extreme.
The Soloist loves playing with the interior of clothing items as if he is continually searching for protection. He has realized light armors characterized by several details (bodices, bands, zips, scarves fringed on the back, double volumes). However, the exteriors showed materials that were only apparently classic such as pied de poule, tweed and herringbone patterns. But they were actually artificial fibers.
Undercover also seemed to focus on workwear but with a more pop style, alternately romantic and nostalgic, and always referred to the theme of Space Odyssey, with printed materials, codes and phrases ad hoc. Then, there were entirely original outfits, such as anoraks combined with pleated skirts in soft wool, leaving surely a mark.
Their show was included in a very large context rich in appointments that enlivened Pitti Uomo 93 both inside and outside the walls of the Fortezza; consider only the inauguration of Gucci Garden in Piazza della Signoria or the runway show signed by the American brand Brooks Brothers and Palazzo Vecchio to celebrate the 200° anniversary of the brand.