Author: Emanuela Longo
Among the 64 runway shows scheduled during the last Milano Fashion Week, the most sensational one was Gucci’s. There were great expectations and the Milan appointment was seen as the right occasion to present the news of the brand for the season Fall/Winter 2018-19. The second day of Milano Fashion Week was dedicated to Gucci and the brand distinguished itself starting from the invitations sent to its guests, that is an orange timer. It reported the countdown to the beginning of the show. The invitation was then included in a transparent plastic bag signaling the explicit content as parental advisory. What was it referred to?
The game was given away after seeing the show: it was set in a fictitious surgery room including also hospital beds and surgical lights. Chairs were those typical of a waiting room, on the background walls are green and the sound of the typical equipment of surgery rooms echoed.
The protagonists were models, both male and female, who, in a macabre way, brought under their arms decapitated heads representing their own faces or dragon’ and snake’s pups. There were also masks, bataclava helmets or veils interwoven with jewels with which the models covered their faces.
As for style, the classic line dominated as always in Alessandro Michele’s runway shows starting from 2015 and characterizing the fashion catwalks signed by Gucci; a style that mixed cuts, designs, accessories and materials of different times and countries without failing. The intrinsic meaning of the shock show could be found in Michele’s own words explaining how the designer works by cutting, sewing, combining materials and fabrics in order to create a new personality.
The clothes representing the innovation of next season are destined to embody the “allegory of becoming”. We could find several codes taken from different worlds, from the sikh cap of New Yorker taxi drivers to the inuit hat, from the tribal hat to that stolen from a factory. However, there were not only hats, but also sweatshirts with the titles of cult movies and logos, mountain shoes and German sandals decorated with rhinestones, lace suits with the initials of the brand, embroidered veils and cartoon sweaters.